So the day started off kind of rough we woke up at 5 so we could get rolling by 6……which did not happen. Mikaela’s grandma initially wanted to come but then once we were on our way you could tell that she had regretted the idea. It is a 3 and a half hour drive from Quilpue and she was not liking being in the car that long. I mean I understand why, but we all knew that it would be a long drive to get there. We finally made it to Pichilemu and as we were arriving at the city I noticed that the swell was coming in pretty strong.
I had looked at reports and knew that is was going to be big, but it’s one thing to see it on a report as compared to seeing it in person. As we drove through Pichilemu to get to Punta de Lobos it was interesting to see the change in houses and style of life from Pichilemu city center to Punta de Lobos. Near Punta de Lobos there were a ton of upscale houses and tons of vacation rental properties.
We finally made it to our destination Punta de Lobos and were excited to get out of the car to see some waves! Punta de Lobos didn’t disappoint, the waves were firing. I was stoked to see the waves but realized I had made a mistake…… I forgot my freaking memory card for my camera! I was so bummed that I hadn’t thought of that when packing things for the trip. The camera on my phone was the only good option left.
Since I have started surfing I haven’t been to many point break surfing spots but Punta de Lobos was awesome. It was extremely consistent with how many waves were coming through and ranged from 7-12 feet. I personally think that some of the sets were even bigger than that but I couldn’t tell you for sure. After watching some people catch waves at the famous big wave spot behind the two rocks I wanted to give it a try, but not where it broke as big. I put on my wetsuit and watched a couple of people paddle out to try and figure out what to do.
I put on my wetsuit and watched a couple of people paddle out to try and figure out what to do. After watching I felt comfortable to paddle out and I made it out past some rocks and got taken by the current, it took me a while to paddle to the spot that I wanted to be. After watching some waves I caught what felt like a massive wave and rode it for a good while and then paddled a little bit deeper than where I was before. I only have one board and unfortunately, it is not really made for those kinds of waves because it is only a 5’4″ and I’m 5’11”. Anyway I was deeper trying to catch a good size wave and a massive set came through, I paddled through the first 2 or 3 waves and then got destroyed by one of the bigger waves that had broken a lot deeper than where I was. I got wrecked and was underwater for about 10-15 second but it always feels a lot longer when you’re getting thrown around like clothes in a washing machine. I then decided to paddle closer to shore to catch some less intimidating waves.
I really like riding this board but not on bigger days
After surfing we decided to go back to Pichilemu to see what was over there and we ate at a restaurant overlooking one of the main beaches. Mika’s grandma wasn’t happy about being so far away from home so late so we decided to head back even though Mika and I didn’t want to leave yet.
Overall it was a fun experience and I really enjoyed the views of Punta de Lobos and Pichilemu. I would definitely recommend it if you enjoy surfing or just want to see something different in Chile.
Chile has many beautiful sights to see. I have been fortunate enough to be able to drive North and South of Viña del Mar with my in-laws and wife. There is a lot to see and it reminds me of California with a highway going along the coast similar to the Pacific Coast Highway. On Wednesday we went to Maitencillo, Cachagua, Zapallar, and Horcon in search of some waves to surf. We drove to Maitencillo and didn’t find any great spots to surf so we continued up the highway to Cachagua which was beautiful and there was only one other family on the beach.
Side note: Chile is a great place to visit from March-May because most of the summer tourist have left which makes it a lot less crowded.
We walked the beach and found a rock pathway that went along the coast and was next to some huge houses. After walking around we decided to go Zapallar (further North) to continue the wave search but Zapallar is very enclosed and had no waves. As we went down into the city of Zapallar we passed through the quaint city center and as we were driving down the hill getting closer to the beach the houses started to get larger and looked like the belonged to affluent people. We made it down to one of the beaches and as we were walking down the stairs off in the distance my wife saw dolphins so we ran over to some rocks to try and get a better view. The dolphin was shy at first and then it started jumping around not too long after and we stayed and watched it for a while.
After watching the dolphin we decided to head back home. On the way, we decided to make one more stop in Horcon. It wasn’t the prettiest place because it is a humble fishing town but we saw a rock arch and made our way over to it.
We walked past an artisan market and there was a bridge with many ribbons tied to it, they call it the bridge of desires puente de deseos, because you write your desire on a ribbon and then tie it to the bridge. We took some pics and continued to the arch.
We then walked back and on the way back we were able to watch a beautiful sunset, it was unexpected because it was such a great view from a place that wasn’t as pretty as all of the other places we had visited.
En Hawaii aprendí a surfear y fue la mejor experiencia de la vida, Agua calída, todos los dias soleados y si eran nublados igual eran perfectos para poder estan en la playa, con lluvia o no para mi era el paraiso, aguas cristalinas….. Imposible decir que no a Hawaii me sentia culpable si no salía y no conocia lo maravilloso que era y estar bronceada wow!
A veces sentia que vivía en la playa y como no! casi siempre iba a lugares donde estaban los pricipiantes uno se llama Castles, ese lugar es bueno para aprender queda cerca de laie donde yo vivía aun que de todas maneras no me gustaba mucho.
el otro lugar se llama Pua´ena Point, me encantaba ir para allá las olas eran perfectas siempre iba con mi esposo el iba mas adentro porque las olas eran mas enormes y yo quedaba al medio porque las olas eran perfectas para mí.
Otro lugares que son bueno es waikiki beach que queda en Honolulu la ciudad de Oahu las olas son geniales, igual es depende en que epoca vas porque en verano es mas grande de lo que se. Pero la mayoria de las veces surfiaba en North Shore porque quedaba mas cerca a mi casa y obvio era mejor.
freddies beach surfíe cuando era pequeño porque cuando es grande da miedo y las olas me derrotaron bastante, era practicamente un trapo en las olas en ese lugar cuando era grande ahaha.
El Gringo surfing on the North Shore
Llevo recién 5 meses aprendiendo. Fui aproximadamente 12 veces, tuve a un buen maestro (mi esposo) que me enseño y siempre tuvo paciencia aun que sigue teniéndola porque sigo siendo principiante, fui su primera aprendiz a la que le enseño y hace un buen trabajo hasta ahora.
mi esposo surfea en los lugares geniales de north shore ya que el ya sabe surfear como ya saben vivío en hawaii ya algunos años 🙂
Being in South America has been great except for the fact that I’ve had diarrhea for almost 2 weeks. This may seem weird to talk about, but it seems to be a common problem because of something in the water. When I lived in Uruguay before I got food poisoning 2 times and it was miserable. Until about 2 days ago I wasn’t exactly sure what it was but now it seems to be either a virus or stomach flu. I am fortunate enough to get it when we just got here and now everyone including my in-laws think that they know what it is and how to cure it, as well as telling me not to eat practically everything.
Having your in-laws tell you what you can’t eat really limits your diet, they have also been making me take disgusting medicines and herbal teas (which I can’t stand). I know they are trying to help but not being able to drink tap water and eat is terrible. In conclusion to my rant, the water is bad and you should avoid drinking it. Many people from the States get sick here in South America from the water so it might be more safe to either boil water or to not drink the water unless you want to be very familiar with your in-laws or hotels toilet!
Enough of that boring stuff we can now continue with adventures. Recently we went to Valparaiso and had a good time touring around the city.
It reminds me a lof of San Francisco but with a South American spin. There is a lot of great street art/graffiti. I have never been to a place where I have seen so much good and detailed graffiti, which makes the city unique. It also has many steep hills like San Francisco and narrow roads.
We went to Valpo with Mika’s parents and her grandma/aunt. Her aunt and Grandma were freaking out when we were driving up one of the roads to the top. They were covering their eyes and saying how they didn’t want to die. We made it to a high spot and had a great lookout view.
On the way down they were scared again while the rest of us were having a good laugh. We made it to the bottom and continued driving around the city center (centro). We then went and drove along the coast and stopped at a couple of places to walk around and take pictures.
After a fun and stressful experiences, we made it to Chile! Mikaela’s parents came to the Santiago airport to pick us up. We drove all the way back to my Inlaws house in the town Quilpue which is on the outskirts of Viña del Mar and is very laid back.
We have been enjoying our time here. Mika’s parents have been treating us very well and had a welcome party/reception for us.
I have been looking for a surfboard and wetsuit for the waves in Viña del Mar, Concon, and Reñaca. Last time I was here in Chile I was able to surf in Reñaca and had a good time.
It has been fun getting to spend more time here and getting to know Viña del Mar and surrounding cities better. The other day we went and walked around the by the beach and the pier in Viña, they recently restored the pier and it is a pretty place to walk around.
Yesterday we went to the beach in Concon then made our way over to Reñaca for the sunset. Mika is loving being home and had a good time laughing with her dad trying to take a jump picture.
Today we went to the dunes in Concon and had a really good time. We rented a sand board and I was able to ride it several times. I thought it would be more like surfing but I had a lot less control. I ate it several times and was covered in sand, which made me look like I had a full beard. We went back to the house and I still trying to get all the sand off of me.